How to install guide PART 2

Outdoor patio roofing installation made easy.

Part 2 of the DIY roofing install guide.

OK. Bored yet! Now using standard framing nails (50mm long shank) nail the plywood every 150mm on the edges of the plywood and 300mm in the centre.

TIP “For a high wind zone or over 8 metres off the ground nail the entire sheet every 150mm. This is called storm nailing and will conform to most plywood manufacturers guidlines”.

 

2-3mm gap on the short side of the ply
2-3mm gap on the short side of the ply

The plywood should be staggered up the roof increasing the structural integrity

TIP “Allow for a 2 mm gap on the short length of the plywood. This gives room for the plywood to expand as it takes on the moisture of the surrounding environment. You should but the tongue and groove ends together with no gap.”

 

Cladding starting to take shape
Cladding starting to take shape

Be sure to keep your tools and cords fairly tidy.

 

This side of the garden patio has a 3.5 metre fall from the fascia
This side of the garden patio has a 3.5 metre fall from the fascia
This side of the patio has a 3.5 metre fall from the fascia

Anything over 2 metres in height is considered “Working at heights” and certain saftey measures need to be taken (refer to Work Safe Guidelines). This is a 600mm wide aluminium scaffold that is very lightweight and portable.

TIP “A lightweight alluminium scaffold is very easy to put together and is not too expensive to hire.”

 

Small gaps at the top of the plywood will be fixed with the shingles
Small gaps at the top of the plywood will be fixed with the shingles

This looks a little messy where the plywood meets at the top, however there is an easy fix that I will show you later on.

 

Using tin snips to cut the metal drip edge
Using tin snips to cut the metal drip edge

 

This drip edge is 125mm with a 90° bend then 25mm with a 10mm upturn. The colour is on the outside, generally Monument to match the dual black shingles. The purpose of this material is to protect the bottom edge of the plywood which can rot over many years.

 

Nail the drip edge to the lower edge of the ply
Nail the drip edge to the lower edge of the ply

 

Hammer a nail half way in on both ends of the face of roof 100mm up from the bottom edge of the plywood and snap a chalk line. This will be used to position the drip edge 25mm below the bottom edge of the plywood. Overlap the drip edge material 100mm at the joins.

TIP “Never nail through two layers of metal drip edge as it will expand in the heat and buckle and warp.”

 

Asphalt saturated felt paper will cover the entire roof area
Asphalt saturated felt paper will cover the entire outdoor patio area

 

This is a full roll of asphalt Saturated felt material that is used to cover the entire outdoor patio area.  One of these rolls covers 40m2 – however you will loose some area in the overlap.  The use of the felt paper gives the entire system a Class A fire rating – Resisting severe exposure to fire.  It also protects the asphalt shingles from toxins leaching out of the plywood.  Roofing felt paper provides added protection against severe wind driven rain and reduces the instance of picture framing which is the visible outlines seen when the plywood is not perfectly flat.

Lay the asphalt saturated felt material accross the roof starting at the bottom. The bottom edge of the felt paper should be in line with the bottom edge of the drip edge. When joining you should overlap 100mm on the vertical joins and overlap 50mm on the horizontal joins. Staple the peper down to hold the felt paper in place. When it is windy it is useful to have someone to help as it is hard to keep the paper in place.

TIP “Be aware that the asphalt saturated felt paper is only stapled down and it can slip under your feet. This becomes more of an issue the steeper the pitch is.”

 

Rolling out the asphalt saturated felt paper in line with the drip edge
Rolling out the asphalt saturated felt paper in line with the drip edge

 

Roll out the asphalt saturated felt material starting in the corner of the outdoor gazebo.  Line up the bottom of the felt material with the bottom edge of the drip edge or the bottom of the plywood – whichever you have.  Only use enough staples to hold the underlay in place.  Be sure to keep the felt material tight as you roll it across the outdoor gazebo.  When you reach the other edge simply cut the felt material with a stanley knife.

 

Staple down the felt paper with a hammer stapler
Staple down the felt paper with a hammer stapler

 

 

Cutting the starter course - the first course on the roof
Cutting the starter course – the first course on the roof

 

Now we have to cut the starter course “first course” off the main three tab asphalt shingle pieces.  To do this I simply place the bundle of asphalt shingles upside down, use the back of a shingle piece as a guide and carefully cut off the tabs of the shingle.  Each piece of starter course will be 1000mm wide so only cut as much as you will need.

TIP “Keep the pieces “tabs” that you have cut off as these can be used as fill in pieces up the hips or along the ridge if you have a ridge.”

 

Keep the tabs cut off the starter course
Keep the tabs cut off the starter course

TIP “PLEASE NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the tape of the bottom side of the asphalt shingle. The sole use of this tape is to stop the asphalt shingles sticking together in transit’.”

 

Snap a chalk line as a guide for the starter course
Snap a chalk line as a guide for the starter course

 

Measuring 180mm from the bottom of the felt material on both ends snap a chalk line. This will be used as a guide for the starter course.  The Starter course strips are 190mm deep and when lined up with the chalk line the bottom edge will overhang the felt material by 10mm. This creates a secondary “drip edge” for the water.

 

Click here to go to Diy guide part 3

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